Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Review : Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier paid homage to the late singer Amy Winehouse last Wednesday at Paris Couture Fashion Week.

The models throughout were decked in the singer's signature looks - the sky-high beehives, the thick feline eyeliner, and they even went as far as the beauty spot!

A Fred Perry inspired look
Perhaps an unusual muse for a couture show, JPG managed to evolve the singer's love of pencil skirts, close fitting cocktail dresses, and not forgetting the Fred Perry polo shirts (the singer collaborated with the label and her designs are still on sale today) into something a bit more glamourous, and all-in-all, there were only a handful of catwalk looks which were very heavily based on Amy's style, with the majority being elaborate dresses and tops all cinched by at the waist.  The collection featured state-of-the-art corsetry from the man himself, Mr Pearl, one of the few remaining true corsetiers who has already been commissioned by big names such as Lacroix, Galliano and Mugler.

Corsetry magic

As was quite inevitable with using the singer as a muse so soon after her death, there has been some controversy.  Some of the models were even smoking cigarettes as they filed down the runway, and the family of Amy had not been warned, let alone consented, for their daughter's image to be used in such a way.  Only 6 months since the star's death, the family are still in a period of grief, and have found the images from the catwalk upsetting and 'in bad taste'.  Proceeds from the Fred Perry sales of her collections are going to the Amy Winehouse Foundation, whereas JPG has not even committed to making a donation, which further exacerbates the sentiment that the collection is about making money, rather than respecting the singer's style and life.

 Couture is all about the finest cuts, seamstresses, fabrics and designs, and for me, this collection provides all these, with pieces ranging from the unusual and flamboyant, to some demure, feminine cuts.  The only thing I would say is that if I was to pay couture prices, I simply would not want my garment to be a (albeit well made) transformation of a sports top!

My favourite look from the show

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